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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred names. But, nestled high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a outlying corner of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

The compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. The recognition has left the owners completely shocked.

“I’m utterly shocked,” states a owner’s son, referring to his family’s dedication that resulted in their modest place securing such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has maintained much of its former feel. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the food, and this restaurant certainly excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, toastier and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning outside its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this gastronomic honour.